Tomorrow we are off for a little adventure. We will try to visit Anselm Kiefer’s old Studio near Barjac, France. He lived there from 1993 to, I believe, 2008. During that time he transformed the huge (35 ha.) terrain, what used to be a silk factory (filature de soie), he built tunnels and structures, even an artificial lake, the whole thing was meant to transform into a living and decaying installation. There were talks with the Guggenheim to take the place as an open air museum of sorts
We have been talking about visiting this place for some years now. Kiefer is my absolute favorite artist and my wife quite likes him as well. Now it finally fits, because we also want to check out the Biennale in Lyon.
What struck us when we researched this trip, was how difficult it was to get any real information, it felt like a buried story. No website had the visiting hours, visiting conditions or any other facts at all. The location was nowhere to be found. We even mailed the office de tourism in Barjac, no answer.
We did find a few websites relaying the story of why Kiefer left Barjac in 2008. It appears he was not very popular among the locals, the rich german artist speeding past in his various sports cars. Especially the local hunters had a bone to pick with him, because of issues with hunting on his terrain. At some point there was a theft, some lead based art work was stolen, not to resell them as art, which would have been worth millions, but to break them apart. Quite destructive. In a huff Kiefer left the place and moved most of the art work to his new temporary studio near paris, many many containers of this.
Guggenheim is no longer interested. What is supposed to happen with the studio now? In an Interview Kiefer recently said, that he donated the whole thing to the French state. It is not decided what will happen.
Meanwhile we still had no clue where in Barjac his fabled ex-studio was located. So we started to search Google Maps, comparing the maps with the photos and videos we had found. There was one area that looked suspicious, just northeast of Barjac. Kiefer had named his studio “La Ribaute”, the road near here is called Ribotte. Hmmm. We looked and looked for clues. We could not pin it down 100%.
Finally my wife found a geo located photo on panoramio, exactly in the area we thought it was. Bingo.
So off we go tomorrow. Hunting down Kiefer.
No clue what we will find.
Will it be accessible?
Will there be guards?
Can we take pictures? Ha.
I will update this post after our trip, with all the information, photos, videos we can find. TBC
#####
some links:
There is a documentary coming out about Kiefer and his last days in this studio, by Sophie Fiennes. Looks amazing. Over Your Cities Grass Will Grow
Over Your Cities Grass Will Grow – Trailer
Lieu privé / lieu public – espace intime / espace politique : L’atelier selon Anselm Kiefer – Anne Chalard-Fillaudeau – in French, some interesting reflections on Kiefer’s process in Barjac
ANSELM KIEFER chassé par les chasseurs – a blog post about the theft and why kiefer left, in french
L’atelier d’Anselm Kiefer cambriolé – le figaro article on the theft, in french
wikipedia mentions Kiefer used to live there, but no further info here: Barjac, Gard
more pretty awesome photos where that came from ;p
quick update: we did find the place. it was surrounded by a barbed wire fence, quite an impressive feat to build a fence surrounding the huge area, and guarded by “evil dogs”, chiens mechantes. it said the fence was electric, but it wasn’t, we tested it. we decided not to climb inside, it didn’t give the impression that this was tolerated, felt too hostile. we still got some great views and impressions of some of the art work, more photos and videos will follow…
the region is fantastic. we also saw some of the famed hunters, that Kiefer supposedly was in conflict with, chasing “sangliers”, wild boars.
Update after the trip:
We did find the place exactly where we thought it would be. 44° 19′ 31.82″ N 4° 21′ 57.11″ E Just to the north-east of Barjac. The region (Cevennes) was a discovery for us, it is amazingly beautiful, but also quite conservative, not to say hick. The studio is surrounded by a fence with warning signs all around claiming that the fence is electric (not true) and that there are chiens mechants = aggressive dogs (not sure if that one is true). In one corner of the property lives a caretaker with 2 or 3 barking dogs. The fence and everything around it did signal that it’s not tolerated to climb over the fence to have a look around. We also could not speak to anyone to get permission for a visit. So we stayed outside and walked around the fence. It was a little disappointing. But sure, what else can you expect…
We did get some pretty awesome views of the 7 Heavenly Palaces and a nice feel for the general layout of the place and some of its architecture.
It is a bloody shame that this place is locked to the public, and I truly hope that they decide soon what to do with it. This could be a fantastic walkable park/museum, enough of the art is still there, there’s a lake and very nice buildings. A huge rusty pipe connects two buildings and from what i read you can walk inside this to pass from one building to the next. But time has its toll on the art, some of it is falling apart and getting overgrown. From what i read Kiefer himself has given up on the place and handed it over to the “French state”, whatever that means. So get on it. We want to visit the inside before everything has fallen apart.
I am now looking forward to watching Sophie Fiennes Documentary Over Your Cities Grass Will Grow.
When we drove off we saw a few guys hanging about with their guns. So these were the famous hunters that Kiefer had his conflicts with? We spoke with one of them and I filmed the conversation. I will try to upload it to YouTube later… They are hunting sangliers, which I believe translates as wild boars. Pretty funny stuff.
Here are some of my photos:
Hunting Down Kiefer in Barjac 2011 on Flickr
Here are two videos from this Experience:
Updated 2015:
Just saw the movie and appreciated your efforts. Would love to see the site. Too bad it is locked down. Perhaps someday…..
You are very welcome. I tried to create a post with the information that i wished i could have found when researching this trip. I hope it helps. Having said that, I think the site is still worth a visit as it is.
glad i read your blog – i was going to drag my husband and kids there to try and see it…. but dont think i will bother now ! shame !
To be honest, if you are in the region, it is spectacularly beautiful around there, I mean even Barjac and the surrounding hills. but if i saved you a long trip, I am glad.
Thanks for the enlightening information. I was curious about the site as well, but could find nothing about it’s current status.
Cheers!
Just visited MFA, Boston and discovered Mr. Kiefer. OMG. I feel we are artistic soul mates separated by birth. And, my art school education has been justified! I used to be hostile to the male, intoxicated Abstract Expressionist art being worshiped in the 80’s. However, now I find myself drawing with similar style and I just found Mr. Keifer. A life-changing moment.
Great post. Just the information I was looking for. My husband and were looking for a trail head and stumbled on this weird site north of Barjac. Very cool, but had no idea what it was. I think we were on the road where you took the first video from. We tried to get closer but found as you did the that place was tightly secured – electric fence, dogs and video surveillance. Sad that they’re not doing anything with it, but very fun to find these strange towers looming above the hay fields.
Hello,
I was just there recently… it is not abandoned at all, in fact, it is heavily secured. Cameras are functioning and the place is well guarded. I did manage to get access to the inside – partly because I was alone. The place is quite incredible, especially what you can’t see from the outside. You do need a guide to be there with you – everything is locked down and guarded.
I have heard there are contacts in Paris that can arrange for a visit – maybe people can try that avenue.
Plans are ongoing to turn the site over to the government, it is still Kiefer’s who visits now 1-2 a year to oversee further construction. I think it will be open to the public again in the next few years.
Seeing it in person is extremely impressive – much more so than on the DVD. Scale is off the charts at all times and it’s very overwhelming… a work of genius in my estimation. Kiefer has talked alot about desperation and leaving Barjac, I felt exactly that.
Any idea of the details required to get in contact with someone in Paris??
I would love to hear about these contacts as well.
Could I ask whether anyone was able to discover any of the contact details for the people in Paris?
I’d greatly appreciate any help or advice in who to approach, places to look for more information.
Kind regards,
I was looking for how to visit and very much enjoyed your blog and description of barjac. There’s not much other info out there. I’m tempted to climb the fence with dog repellant but will try my very limited connections in Paris first, that’s one connection. The kids may have to stay in the van.
I wish you the best of luck with the dog repellent and look forward to your report. We did not see the actual dogs but heard them bark, they sounded scary but it was also the hunting season with many wild boars running around. The house with the dogs is sort of in the northwest corner, your best bet to get a good view or even get inside would be the total opposite corner, where there is also some type of forest up to the fence.
[I edited your comment for the typo and deleted your follow up comment]
…hello michael wells here hope you are well…ive been doing some research into anselm…could you supply me with anselms actual postal address as id like to send him some of my research?…if you like i could also pass it on to you too!…[mr michael wells, 11 toner avenue, hebburn, tyne and wear, NE31 2PE. UK tel;07772991694]
I’m afraid I don’t have his new address – I just know it’s close to and nord west of Paris. I would of course love to see your research.
Just saw Kiefer’s retrospective in Paris today and it was E P I C.
Also, thank you, Jan, for the info above.
I live in Aix-en-Provence (not too far) and I’m curious as to if it was worth the trouble, in the end?
Thanks again, Eric
yes, i think it was worth the trouble. but i can’t say it’s for everyone. i just found it very interesting. and the area is beautiful.
Just planning a visit to Provence and wondering whether there is any further information on the possibility of visiting Kiefer’s studio in Barjac. Contact details ect…
I don’t think so, Robert. Kiefer now has his studio near Paris, and only occasionally visits Barjac.
we try to find a contact with mr. ANSELM KIEFER can you help us?
we are producing a documentary about nazi’s period in north greece and it is very important to us to contact with him, thank you very much
Sorry, I have no contacts with Kiefer. He is now living and working near Paris, northwest of Paris. But I don’t know more.
Thank you so very much for sharing your adventure!